Bonding 2 chinchilla’s
Chinchillas are very social animals and love to interact and communicate with others, living in the wild in colonies of up to 100 other chinchillas, it is therefore hardly surprising to know in captivity chinchillas enjoy the company of a mate. Sometimes chinchillas naturally accept one another immediately and other times they need a little adjustment time. Rarely, two dominant chinchillas will not get along no matter what.
It is always best to start with a slow introduction process when planning to cage two or more chinchillas together. A chinchilla living in a pair is generally happier, more stimulated and less stressed than lone chinchilla but it must also be remember that unless chinchillas are together from birth (and even then they can still fight spontaneously) they will need to be introduced slowly and more so if one has been living on its own for a period of time.
Remember: There is no guarantee that introducing chinchillas will be successful as all chinchillas are individual. The issue should never be rushed if you are to house happy chinchillas together. You can increase the success rate of introducing chinchillas by making sure you follow the correct procedure as shown below and NEVER just put a new chinchilla into the cage of another chinchilla without properly introducing them first. The latter will cause the current chinchilla to become protective of its environment and most likely immediately attack the intruder
The Correct Way To Introduce Chinchillas...
Step 1
To introduce chinchillas correctly, place both chinchillas in a separate cage and keep the cages side-by-side about 2" apart so the cages do not touch and the chins cannot bite one another through the wires but instead, get used to one another through sight and smell first. This must be done for at least 1 week. *Make sure each is exercising in a separate safe room.
You may notice the chins run and bounce off the wire wall nearest to the other chin's cage or spit and urinate (if it is the female) at one another - this is natural and only the chinchilla marking its territory and annoyed that another chinchilla is in its vicinity. Over the next few days the chinchillas will calm down to a point where you will witness them sitting calmly at the end of the cage where the other one habitats.
Observe the behaviour of both chinchillas and if you see any signs of continued aggression, move the cages further apart and keep repeating the process until the chins are calm and happy to be near one another as suggested above.
When both chinchillas are happy to be near one another, it is at this point, you can move on to step 2..
step 2.
Place the chinchilla cages up against one another. If there is still positive behaviour (sitting nearby, no grabbing or aggression) then you can keep the cages like this for 1 week while swapping Chinchilla’s from cage to cage. Every night swap the chinchilla into the other cage and vice versa, so they start to become very familiar with the other Chini’s smell and so that the cages become more ‘neutral’. This must be done for at least 1 week. If everything seems peaceful you can move on to step 3. *Make sure each is exercising in a separate safe room.
Please note * if you see any aggressive behaviour though the bars of the cage, revert back to step 1.
Step 3
Now proper introductions can commence. Introduce chinchillas in the mornings when they are more than likely to sleep than be constantly awake and active during the night.
WARNING - Females are generally the most dominant and can potentially kill their male companion if introductions are not done properly. If a female rejects her mate she will show her disinterest/annoyance by standing up on her hind legs and spraying urine at him before attacking if he doesn't get the initial message. You must therefore provide complete supervision during initial introductions.
The best way to introduce chinchillas is to allow them freedom in a completely neutral safe territory (which neither has been in) such as a bathroom. Place a sand bath in the middle of the room and allow the chinchillas some 'out of cage' activity at the same time. *Monitor them for the entire time. Fully observe their interactions - most of the time, chinchillas usually start off by investigating their new environment and seem uninterested in meeting until they bump into one another. They will then either sniff, nibble and communicate with the other or begin fighting. If they seem hospitable to the other, do short visits like this (5 minutes x 5 visits over the course of 1 day or 2 to 3 days depending on how they interacted)
Make sure there are plenty of 'hide - away' places such as tubes and cardboard boxes so the chins can hide if they want to and only return them to their separate cages if fighting commences. Should this be the case, witness both chinchillas behaviour on the return to their individual cages and try introductions again when they express calmness in the others company (usually by the following night).
When the chinchillas seem comfortable after being introduced and content to be near one another whilst on the open floor, you will need to put them together in a completely neutral cage (all items of separate cages must be cleaned) which is step 4.
Step 4
Place plenty of toys, gnawing material and 'hide-a-ways' within the cage (to encourage the chins to take focus off one another) and allow both chins to enter the cage at the same time. * To help avoid fights while living together, have multiple food dishes and water bottles too for the first few weeks.
Observe the chinchillas at all times during the cage introduction stage - do not worry if you hear a few noises or there is a small scuffle, this is just them trying to sort out living arrangements and what they like or don't like - just keep watching!
Do not separate the chinchillas unless you see them use their teeth or blood is drawn. If this happens you will need to immediately separate the chinchillas into separate cages and begin the process from the beginning again.
Chinchillas need time to get used to one another during introductions and in a cage with limited space it is imperative they get on! It is a good idea to also place a dust bath within the cage, which will help relax the chinchillas as they jump into one another sand neutralizing individual scent.
After a couple of hours and only when you see the chinchillas sitting next to one another or nuzzling or grooming can you leave them and know so far the introduction stage has gone well!
It is recommended that during the first few nights of the initial introduction days, you maintain a regular check on how the chinchillas are interacting but generally as soon as chinchillas are cuddled up together, they have accepted one another and are more than happy to live together for life.
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WARNINGS
Once chinchillas have taken to living with one another, it is not recommended that they are separated at any point unless certain conditions occur (e.g.vet visit required). Co habitating chinchillas will attack one another on return if they are separated during a period of time. This is due to the absent chinchilla returning to the cage environment smelling different (for example of the veterinary surgery) rather than the scent of the chin who originally left. The existing chinchilla will then think the same chinchilla is an intruder and will attack without mercy.
If either of the chinchillas need to visit a veterinary surgeon, take both chinchillas in the same carrier and ask for the chins to be kept together (apart from when examining or operating). This will help keep the chinchillas of the same scent and will not cause any problems when returning them to the cage environment.
Always allow them to exercise at the same time.
Always have a backup cage, even after your chins are living together peacefully. They could change their mind at any time or you may need to separate them due to illness or injury.
Please contact us at any stage of the bonding process for advice and be patient and willing.
0727317397 lauren.namer@iburst.co.za
