Bonding buns...
Bonding or introducing rabbits
The process of introducing two rabbits is known as bonding. As every rabbit is different and has its own personality, you cannot guarantee that two rabbits will bond. Rabbits that are introduced prematurely may have a fight and take a long time to recover from the trauma of it so introducing them over a certain period (a few days to a few weeks) is necessary to ensure their bonding is successful.
Preparation
Take your rabbit along when you fetch the new rabbit. Put them together in one carrier and have someone sit in the car with the carrier on their lap to monitor them. Smelling and sniffing is good! Nipping isn’t.
When you get home put vanilla oil (or some other natural product) on them – rub your hands in it and go over their fur so that they both smell similar.
Start off by putting the two rabbits in adjoining cages. If you already have a house rabbit and are introducing another, let your current rabbit run free (provide it with another litter tray) and put the new rabbit in the cage with your current rabbit's litter tray, bowl etc. The rabbits will get used to each other's smell and your current rabbit will learn that he/she cannot be territorial about the cage.
If you don't have a cage for your house rabbit, put the two rabbits in adjoining rooms with a baby gate or similar barrier between them or if they are in the garden then separate with some chicken fencing (make sure it is secure). It is important that they are able to see and smell each other and communicate through the fence.
Give them a few days to settle down (no less than 2 and if the female is the original home owner than 4-6 days is best. The rabbits will be very curious about each other, touching noses through the bars and probably displaying some courtship behaviour such as honking and circling even though both are neutered / spayed. It helps to have a good understanding of rabbit body language. A good sign will be when both rabbits lie down either side of the bars as this shows they are relaxed together. It helps to feed them both together at the barrier so they get used to eating together.
For two de-sexed rabbits, it can take anything from a couple of days to a few weeks - it all depends on the rabbits' personalities. If either rabbit is displaying aggressive behaviour such as growling and biting, wait a while longer before trying the introduction.
Meeting face to face
When they are ready, prepare a neutral space for the introduction i.e. somewhere that neither rabbit feels is "their" place. A bathroom is a good choice as your current rabbit is unlikely to be territorial about it. Remove anything that might hurt the rabbits if they run into it or jump on it but it is a good idea to provide a cardboard box with a hole in either end that a stressed rabbit can retreat into or jump on top of. Put both rabbits in the bath first, crouch down at their level and remain there with them. Do this for 5 minutes and if they smell each other or lick or anything else which is friendly you can move on to doing the same in the rest of the bathroom. So follow the bath step in the bathroom and wait 10-15 minutes. The three most common scenarios are as follows:-
1. One or both rabbits immediately attack the other. This is very rare but is unmistakeable when it happens. For this reason it is advisable to wear thick gloves for the first meeting as you will need to intervene quickly to prevent the rabbits getting hurt. If this happens, separate the rabbits immediately and go back to stage 1 i.e. separate quarters.
2. In the most common scenario, one of the rabbits will take the lead and approach the other, sniffing and circling them and trying to mount them. This is not so much for courtship as for dominance and is the rabbits way of figuring out who is going to be "boss". A submissive rabbit will let this happen, putting their head on the ground, while a less submissive rabbit may nip or run away. Stay with the rabbits at all times and intervene if you feel one or both rabbits are becoming too stressed.
3. Love at first sight i.e. the rabbits approach each other as equals, sniffing and nuzzling each other but both are clearly enjoying the experience. This is rare so don't worry if it doesn't happen.
Assuming your rabbits follow the most likely scenario at point 2, allow them 10 minutes or so for the first meeting and watch closely for any serious aggression. Nipping and fur pulling and a little chasing is quite common and is not necessarily cause to separate them. The more you separate the harder it will be as one will feel the need to re-dominate the other. You can help by sitting down with the rabbits, stroking them and generally acting as a "chaperone" as they get to know each other. Offer fresh veg (their favourites) during this time. It also helps to have a water spray handy; spraying water in the face of an attacking or over-exuberant rabbit usually stops it in its tracks and furthermore encourages grooming, a social activity which fosters rabbit relationships. Try to spray them just before you see they are about to take action as opposed to after.
If this meeting went well, you can continue with these meetings several times a day (if you would like the process to go quicker) or once/twice daily- increasing from 10 mins to 30 or 45 mins at a time. Do this until you get a good, relaxed vibe from the rabbits. All being well, the rabbits will eventually stop taking notice of each other and become curious about their surroundings instead. This is the turning point when it is usually safe to let the rabbits roam free together in the house, however, keep monitoring them. When the rabbits start to lie down together or groom each other, the bond is made and will continue to deepen with time. It is now safe to leave the rabbits together at all times in their own territory.
Bonding problems and tips
Most problems arise because the rabbits are not de-sexed or the introductory period of separate housing has not been for long enough. Rabbits that are introduced prematurely may have a fight and take a long time to recover from the trauma of it.
In summary, slow and steady wins the race. Remain relaxed and calm (VERY IMPORTANT- YOUR ENERGY IS PICKED UP BY THEM). Bonding rabbits is probably more stressful on us as observers as it is on the rabbits; ultimately they need to work it out in their own way - our role is to watch, encourage and make sure they stay safe and unharmed.
